Day 16 - Embroidery

Yes, I'm still in my teens and yes, this a post about my love of embroidery.

One thing I love about embroidery is that it's a skill you can never stop learning. There are an infinite number of stitches and stitch variations and although some may be easier than others (french knots!!), if you work with 3 strands of thread on a thick, sturdy fabric such as calico and have a good illustrative book to learn from then it's fairly easy to get the hang of. The skill and expertise is mainly in working on tricky fabrics, the neatness of the back and attention to detail and sizing.

I can really recommend this book, find it on Amazon here.

The first mistake which many beginner embroiderers make is forgoing the hoop. The hoop is essential. I repeat, the hoop is essential! Have you ever rested a sheet of paper on somebody's back to write on it? If so then you'll know that it's difficult to put the pen where you want it and almost impossible to draw a straight line. Well embroidery is the same. You will never manage to get the needle where you want without the fabric pulled tight and flat.

I also advise binding your inner hoop with some kind of cotton tape (see above). This helps grip the fabric and prevents the hoop from marking it so much. Also as the harsh edges of the hoop are eliminated you can work on a large piece of fabric and just move the hoop about over the work you've already done without catching or ruining anything.

Yesterday I tried two knot stitches and two variations of chain stitch. Going round the corner is pearl stitch, and vertically is coral. Then horizontally at the top is a square chain stitch and below it in red is a twisted chain. I think it might be fun to add some seed beads in between the 'rungs' on the square chain or between the knots on the coral stitch.

But, if you're still not convinced that embroidery is for you then have a look at every Haute Couture collection ever shown at Paris Fashion Week, and then we'll talk again.

Day 15 - Intermission Acceptance and Sketchbook

It's common enough knowledge that we don't achieve every target which we set ourselves. But what isn't often heard is that it's okay. Sometimes life gets in the way. You might be struck with a health issue, maybe you need to support a loved one, or possibly you just realise that the target you set was unattainable.

And that's all fine.

Often we can get so annoyed at ourselves for not living up to our own targets that we quit, and think well it's not worth it any more, but I'm here saying it is. Don't just stop doing something because you didn't finish it in the time constraints, carry it on so that you can still get the amazing feeling of finishing. 

And if that still doesn't feel natural then think of it this way: if somebody owes you money but doesn't get it back to you by the time agreed what do you do? Write it off and say never mind, you couldn't do it by the end of May so it's not worth it any more, or do you continue to ask for that money until the unreliable sod gets it to you?

Life got in the way of taking the energy for creativity and time for writing these posts over the last week, but that doesn't mean I want to give up, it's still worthwhile and I feel just as strongly about the personal importance which this project holds for me as I did when it began, so here I go.

Yesterday, after watching my new favourite film, Empire Records (available on UK Netflix) I had a little internal debate concerning the attraction of the 90's. I was born in 1996, thus missing out on any fun which the decade had to offer, as well as any first hand knowledge from which to draw from for this paragraph but here is my ill informed analysis anyway. The benefits of technology and the information of the world wide web, without the consuming addictive side which it holds now. People seemed to do things back then. Sad teens sitting in their rooms by themselves (much like myself) actually did things to occupy themselves with rather than just social media / Netflix trains. They did more, thought more, spoke more, went out more. 

So by this sudden flash of inspiration I began a fast paced art journal. I'm not talking the painstakingly perfect shabby chic scrapbook journals, but just things which I liked decorated on a page really quickly. Not buying anything new, just using bits and pieces I've collected over the years. I had aimed to complete the whole sketchbook in one night, but it became evident that was an unattainable target so instead I made peace with the 9 pages which managed in only 3 or 4 hours.

Invest in a good white pen, it'll be the best artistic investment you'll make. I recommend the Hybrid 10mm Pigment Gel Ink pen

No, I didn't complete what I set out to do in the pre-agreed time frame, but I'll be damned if I don't get this sketchbook done at some point soon.

Damn The Man and Save The Empire,

Have a good one

Day 14 - Fashion on Film, Dior

Yesterday I went to the Barbican in London to see a showing of Dior & I, armed with a camera with no battery, (I know, not my finest moment). If you've never been to the Barbican it's this huge 1960's complex in the City of London (mostly banks and offices just east of the main tourist bit) dedicated to the arts. Fashion, music, installation, film, education and art events are shown year round and I thought it would be the best place to see a cultural film like this. 

Dior & I follows Raf Simons as he makes the move from ready-to-wear at minimalist brand Jil Sander to the feminine extravagance of couture Dior, and the design and production of his first collection which has a deadline of 8 weeks, only a fraction of the amount of time usually taken to create a show of this calibre. 

I'll get my only negative out of the way first, I wouldn't necessarily recommend this film to anybody with dyslexia as fair proportion was French with English subtitles that were on the screen so briefly that I couldn't read and watch at the same time, which I found frustrating.

I felt that the film captured so many of the struggles and joys that come with the work openly and honestly. The language barriers, the roles of different employees within the house, the extra hours which have to be pulled to get garments ready for shows, the history of the house and being a newcomer in such an established atelier. There was a large focus on the seamstresses producing the toiles in the ateliers which I found fascinating, it's wonderful that such skill remains in such a fast fashion world.

I don't want to use the term "character" as he is a real man, but I found the personal story of Raf Simons fascinating. Shy and anxious at times yet still dedicated and determined to do the best to fill the shoes left for him. The contrast between this man and some of the fierce or extraverted personalities which are often depicted in fashion is very evident, he seemed almost, and I'm scared to say it, normal and likeable.

Most importantly however it was inspiring. Simons repeated a number of times how excited he is for the future, which is just such a good attitude to have. Learn from the past but always be looking forward. The workmanship and level of perfection on the clothing was just phenomenal, and the finished garments themselves were stunning. Although perhaps that goes without saying - it is Dior after all.


Find showings where you live here:
http://www.diorandimovie.com/screenings/

Day 13 - Exhibition Time

One of the benefits of being home for the Easter holidays is being able to do things with my Mum. While the overlap of our interests is small we still manage to find things today, and yesterday I chose to see a collection of Vivienne Westwood's work which is being displayed at the English Heritage site of Danson House, only a 10 minute walk from my house.

The majority of the items are on loan from the V&A. If you're not familiar with the way museums work, the collections which you see on display are often only a tiny fraction of what is held, restored and maintained by them. So while the Victoria and Albert does have a case of Westwood's designs on show in the fashion and costume room on permanent display, they will have many more pieces of hers in storage, which is where these items will have come from. 

The collection shown here was wonderful. I've already studied Westwood enough times to be familiar with her work, but I've never seen any of it up close as this show allowed me to. There were a good selection of pieces, from the iconic Sex Pistols 70's punk Seditionaries, through T-Shirts and corsets to huge gowns. Being a primarily local exhibition space meant that the traffic they were expecting through was fairly small, so a number of items were just out in the room standing on plinths rather than behind perspex. This allowed me to get up close and personal, seeing details which otherwise would have been lost.

The information boards they had out were surprisingly un-wooly, containing quotes from Westwood about each piece about her inspirations, why the pieces were successful and so on. I also appreciated the graphic way in which these boards were presented. If I had one criticism it would be the female bias; I feel as though there could have been more menswear, which is a common issue in fashion exhibitions.

How cool is this candle holder?

The setting of the exhibition in Danson House was also been inspiring, having been restored to its original state in the mid 1800's from old records. No, it's hardly Versailles, but then it's not meant to be. Seeing how wealthy non-aristocrats lived is quite a rare thing, often money is only put into the restoration of stately manors which are inhabited by distant relations of the royal family, so to see the setting in which the wealthy merchants lived was very interesting.

Another lure is that Danson is only a 5 minute walk away from the Red House of William Morris, so you could give the trip a double purpose. I would highly recommend making the trip to see this if you live in the South East, it's open until October 2015, and especially as a fashion student it's such an important part of British Fashion History that you can't afford not to go.

Tickets are £8 or £6 concessions (incl. students with valid student card)

http://www.bexleyheritagetrust.org.uk/dansonhouse/vivienne-westwood/

Day 12 - Creative Realisation

I realised yesterday something very important. Recently I've been categorising the day's events and tasks into two categories. Work, and time wasting things which I should feel guilty about. How unhealthy is that?

Naturally I'm a very stressed, up-tight, work obsessed worrier, and I often need to remind myself to take a break, that it doesn't really matter and so on. But my life right now is being controlled completely by my work. I'm not going out much because that would be a commitment to not working, which of course is shameful. Instead however, I'm just checking Facebook, which takes me onto Buzzfeed, which takes me onto... I'm sure you're all aware of the depths of social media yourselves, but 2 or 3 hours later there I am having done something which isn't work, yes, but at the same time having done nothing. All of which has led to a very one dimensional existence.

So the change which I'm making going forwards is to do things which I enjoy. Contour fashion was chosen by me as my course because I enjoy it, but being too stressed I seem to have forgotten that. And in between do things which bring me more joy. I'm sure to many of you this sounds obvious, but for me in my permanent state of anxiety it is something which has to be forced. Hopefully after a while it will become second nature and I'll be carpe-ing my dium all over the place.

Day 11 - Dealing With Failure

I made this challenge for myself so I'm going to document things even if they don't go well. Like yesterday. Yesterday was awful. I spent money on a bus fare to get to a fabric shop a few miles away which has never failed me yet, just for it to fail me. Then the weather turned, my boyfriend and I fought, and the only way out of the mess of Thursday was to just go to bed and wait for the change which comes from nowhere when I wake up in the mornings. 

But I'm writing about it because it's okay. It doesn't matter that yesterday I didn't achieve, that it was hard. I tried, things just didn't go my way. But you keep going, knowing that tomorrow is a new day, and if you fall asleep determined to wake up to a better day then you probably will. Not every day is a win, but they're still important, they're part of the journey.

Day 10 - Kid's Craft

Confession time. My dream in the future may be to be able to work with huge Haute Couture brands and costume departments for West End shows, but one thing I love to do to relax is children's craft sets. Whether they're from the £1.99 bins in Hobbycraft or remaining Early Learning Centre sets from when I was younger (like this one), I will mosaic, cross stitch, felt and glitter my way to happiness. And besides, having left all of my 'proper' embroidery materials at university while I'm home for Easter, what else was I to do?

Days 7-9 - Camera Testing and Family Break

http://www.refinery29.com/diy-wedding-bouquets#slide-8
Traditional yet modern, no significance other than its beauty

This weekend has been a break for me, I spent time visiting my Grandma on the North Somerset coast enjoying family time and trying to reset myself back to some semblance of human which isn't so stress infused. I took my camera out every day and fiddled around with it, although acquiring skill is going to take a while yet and the majority of the pictures aren't worth sharing. I seem to be getting on better with the macro lens than with the normal one which shouldn't be happening, but hey-ho.

Day 6 - Feminism in Lingerie

Yesterday I read this post on i-D by Tish Weinstock interviewing Hayat Rachi. To summarise, the founder of Neon Moon lingerie (currently a kickstarter) was explaining why her brand defies anything which sexualises women. Firstly I just want to take a moment to appreciate the irony that is her name-share with Neon Moon Burlesque and Caberet Club. Moving on from this wonderful piece of coincidence, I have mixed feelings about this interview.

Rachi of Neon Moon makes some good points about the benefits of soft cup bras. It's certainly true to say that wires are not as essential as a lot of retailers market them to be, but to say that the only purpose wiring serves is to "adhere to the idea of women as sexual objects" is just not true. For petite and core sizing I agree that wires aren't strictly necessary, we only use them to create the shape that we find attractive but the support which underwiring can give to a large cup size is unrivalled. It allows support to alleviate back pain without having to bind the breasts tight into the body and use lots of extra panelling, seams and fabric which of course all add to the cost of a garment. One area where wires are necessary is in supportive strapless bras, you cannot get the bra to sit tight against the body and stay in one place with supportive, individual cups (as opposed to a bandeau) without them.

Onto breasts. Here's where I get passionate. To say that presenting breasts as sexual is wrong, or that we only use wired bras to look more attractive to men is completely undermining the majority of women in our culture. I do not wear underwired bras so my boyfriend thinks I look sexy. Period. I do what I want and I wear what I want. If I want to create a more pushed up, rounded shape one day, I will. If I prefer a more natural look the next, then I'll wear a wear a bralette or go braless. I am in control of my body, and to me that is feminism.

I don't want to feel shamed for seeing my breasts as part of my sexual identity. I agree that society's attitude to breastfeeding could do with some improvement and obviously that is the primary purpose of breasts, but there is a secondary purpose too in enjoyment! Again, it's a matter of control. I am in control of my sexuality.

And on the theme of shame, I also don't think it's fair to label models as "unattainable". I have a 25" waist and perky boobs, does this mean I don't look like a 'normal girl'? I agree that there should be more diverse representation in every aspect of the fashion and lingerie industries but we need to be very careful in the language and phrasing that we use so we don't make smaller women such as myself feel like we're somehow wrong in the process.

Conversely, I do agree that the extent to which brands such as Victoria's Secret use sexiness as the primary buying factor in advertising needs to change so we have a healthier attitude. For example, I was in VS just the other day trying on neutral coloured strapless bras, and the lady in the fitting rooms told me I could definitely buy an A cup instead of a B because although the B fits better, the A is smaller so it pushes my boobs up and out, looking sexier. Sexiness is not something which factors into a white strapless bra and as a contour student I couldn't believe they were offering out this advice.

To conclude, it's good that there's another brand using diverse models and it's good that there are more soft cup bras available in a variety of sizes. However to say wires are pointless is literally wrong, that statement clearly comes from someone who has never studies bras academically and technically. Also, my breasts and my lingerie form part of my sexual identity, which I am in complete control of, and that control is what makes me a feminist, not the eschewing a certain silhouette.

Signing off, I will make one further point. The interviewer Tish Weinstock chose to use the phrase "stick thin" to describe models often used in lingerie. This is highly offensive and you should never do it. Ever. I would never called a plus size model grossly fat. The same manner of courtesy should be applied both ways.

Day 5 - Clothing Haul

I don't usually like the term 'haul', to me it gives connotations of unneeded spending, just buying for the sake of it, but on this occasion that's the exact opposite of what I was doing. As I mentioned vaguely in my mission statement I've barely been shopping in over 2 years, and while more and more clothes are making the charity shop pile, nothing is coming in to replace them. So back home in London and armed with some left over student loan (a phrase you don't hear very often), I braved Oxford Street.

As usual I spent a questionable amount of time in Topshop flagship. If you've never visited, it's 5 floors of Topshop/Topman, and on one of the first times I visited I got legitimately lost, accidentally left the store using a tiny side exit and walked off in completely the wrong direction. Now, being a seasoned pro, I managed not to lose my way and left through the main entrance with the most beautiful blue (polyester) suade pleated skirt that makes me immensely happy, alongside a couple of other bits and bobs including the perfect white shirt.

Having spent half of my budget in one store, I decided to do further damage by purchasing a merino wool top in Cos. In my justification it was 30% off and so incredibly soft and bright that I couldn't let it go. The same factors applied to the socks. I rarely purchase anything that's not in a cheap high street store because I usually can't afford it, but the care taken in packaging, the lush carpeting in the changing rooms and the neat civilised store layout is a change I could get used to.

Now, significantly over budget, I decided to tone it down, spending the rest of my time in Forever 21 and Pull & Bear. The dress from F21 is not my style but worn under the blue skirt it looks like a bodysuit and would save some dignity if the skirt were to blow up in the wind. The three tops from Pull & Bear are in a quite thin summery jersey and the perfect length to wear with high waisted jeans, but long enough to tuck into my new skirt, as long as you don't have to reach for something on the top shelf. All in all a successful trip.

In other news, I am now posting the day after as it gives me more time to compile a post, and Amazon has delivered me a memory card!

Topshop

Skirt - here

Socks - pink, black and rust

Top - here

Shirt - here

Book - here

Knickers - maroon and black

COS

Top - here

Socks - here

Forever 21

Dress - here

Pull & Bear

Tops - hate everyone, London underground and motorbike

Day 4 - New Camera!

Borrowed memory card, macro lens

The decision making process when most people an investment item is a lengthy one, however I tend to believe that you can read as many reviews as you like and research for months but nothing quite teaches you what's what like owning and using whatever it is. So I went into my local CEX with my boyfriend who is thankfully a lot more knowledgable than I am about these things, and picked up a Nikon D3100, the standard 18-55mm lens and a macro 180-300mm lens with a Jessops UV filter for £227, which seems to be a good price. 

I knew that whatever I bought was going to be an improvement on my iPod camera or my parent's old point and shoot which the word 'broken' seems to have been invented to describe, so I'm really happy about this purchase. You could take the view that maybe I shouldn't be spending this much on a camera when I am near to clueless about them, but this is how I learn. Taking things one shot at a time, learning how to handle it, getting my eye in with the focus, and familiarising myself with all of the settings.

I seem to learn all my creative skills in this way, sewing, piano, guitar, drawing. Being taught occasional lessons from talented friends or family and just making it up as I go along. 

It was a slight oversight however to omit an SD card from my shopping list… 

Day 3, Magazine Review - Porter

The cover of the Spring 2015 issue reads "Modern Heroines", and unlike you would expect in, say, Cosmopolitan, none of the Kardashians have made the cut. The modern heroines in this magazine are women at the forefront of their fields, hard workers who we can look up to. 

Being an advert in itself, the baby of Net-A-Porter doesn't need to fill it's pages with ads as Vogue or Marie Claire do, although the use of the word advert to describe it seems insulting. 

If you are looking for fluff pieces on ten ways to make him love you, or bedroom antics he wishes you knew: what men REALLY want, you're in the wrong place. You are more likely to find designer profiles, performance art reviews, or in depth pieces on fashion history. This journal is written by, well, writers, in intelligent prose, using sophisticated vocabulary, and with no whiff of bubble writing text speak. 

Admirably, Porter stands apart in the world of fashion journalism, there is nothing in this issue which I have read that is gender or sexuality specific because they recognise that fashion has nothing to do with sex, but more culture and beauty. I believe that anyone could read this and not find it excluding of them. It's for humans who are interested in fashion.

It has a remarkably French air about it, this standing on culture. Fashion is presented as part of the arts rather than something cheap and throwaway, which of course is in line with the ranges that Net-A-Porter carries.

Trends are reported, but somehow it doesn't seem as forceful as when other publications present them. The "Fashion memos" are written in a way which doesn't make you feel as if what you currently own is incorrect, they are just informing you on what is new and why it's there so that you can adopt it if you so choose.

The message is not 'you will look better if you do this' but rather, women can be confident, beautiful and intelligent, and nothing needs to be compromised. Be powerful and allow your clothing to be a reflection of what you feel like on the inside. The fashion displayed is beautiful, yes, but to me that's almost beside the point. It's the attitude of this print which has enchanted me.

Porter, powered by Net-A-Porter. 

UK price £5 per issue.

http://www.net-a-porter.com/Content/portermagazine

Day 2, Trend Thoughts

from Tumblr. Do you like it because it's fashion?

I had another post I was planning on writing today, but this is more relevant to what I'm feeling this afternoon.

British fashion is dominated by the highstreet; there are very few successful boutique stores available outside the cool parts of London. Fashion in this country moves at speeds so quickly that it's impossible to keep up, I remember seeing Sir Philip Green of Arcadia (Topshop, Dorothy Perkins, Wallis etc.) in an interview on TV once saying that the turnaround time for seeing a style on the catwalk to having a version available in the stores in his group is 3 weeks. 3 weeks!! To re-design, pattern cut, send samples to and from Asia and London, source fabrics and components, teach factory workers how to make the garment, prepare for website, set into production, iron out kinks, transport across the globe and be hung up in stores. It's baffling.

This fast pace means that every time you go into Primark or Miss Selfridge there is always something new on the shelves, we as consumers have come to expect that. From the perspective of the designer, this means that there is pressure to continue to come up with new product, new concepts, new everything, but the fact is that there are only so many trouser silhouettes or skirt hemlines in the world to choose from. Trend recycling is something that has always been a thing, but now it seems forced. It seems like the highstreet is moving too fast, we need to re-evaluate what women want to wear, rather than forcing trends on them at such a rate that it's simply impossible to keep up.

Flared and bootcut jeans went out of fashion just over 5 years ago, but now just as people are settling into skinnies and embrace them as a way of life, bam, psych! Go buy something new. Well I don't want to. Not just because I think ankle space is unnecessary, but because as soon as I've got used to wearing them the style will change again, so what's the point? I wonder how many people actually want to feel controlled by fashion like this? Last year it was the 90's, this year the 70's... It's getting desperate. I'm only just starting to get into 90's dressing, things should slow down and evolve naturally rather than be dictated and changed as they are.

I have the hugest respect for people who ignore fashion but have amazing style. People who could be walking down the street in any country in any year and still draw in attention because they look amazing, whether that style is classic and feminine, boho layering, sportswear inspired, or an exhibit of a collection of pieces from across the globe.

Don't be a slave to the changing dictatorship of fashion, just own your style and let it grow organically. Feeling pressured into wearing what Tumblr is full of just because it's there even if you don't like it won't make you feel awesome in your clothes.

On a side note, you should take a look at this video, it's about a very strong, stylish woman and more people should hear her message

Day 1, Re-working The Old, OOTD

Today instead of settling into my ordinary work day routine of staying in my pyjamas as long as is possible, usually until I realise I've run out of milk and have to go to the corner shop, I decided to make the most of the clothes I already own.

The sun is just starting to make an appearance again here in the midlands, and while this outfit may never be seen outside due to my thrilling schedule of work, I see no reason to retract back into comfy winter jumpers and jeans when it's not needed.

I've used a safety pin to clip my kimono together where the neckline of a regular top would fall creating a lightweight shirt. I found my skirt in a my favourite vintage shop, the Covent Garden branch of Rokit, about 2 years ago now in their Rokit Recycled range. It's slightly short at the back but I can get away with it as long as there's not too much wind around.

I love the way the wide shoulders and volume of fabric in this kimono mirror out the shape of the skirt creating an hourglass.

Hair and make up is also something I've let go in the past few months especially. It's become more of a chore than anything else, and while I won't be curling my hair every day (split ends!!), it's nice to make the effort.

Shoes - London Rebel at TK Maxx 

Skirt - Rokit Recycled

Belt - Topshop (old)

Kimono - Dorothy Perkins (old)

Mission Statement

I am a fashion student, sort of. I'm a Londoner studying contour fashion at De Montfort University in Leicester, England. But I don't look like it.

I was brought up in a house which hasn't been decorated since the early 80's, in clothes from charity shops, Woolworth's and when Mum was feeling fancy, Primark. Clothes were necessities, an inconvenience. 14 pairs of knickers, 7 T-shirts, 3-4 leggings or jeans, 1 pair each of good, muddy and school shoes and 1 set of fancy clothes to wear to parties. When I got older I learnt that white T-shirt bras were the only ones worth buying and you only needed 2. "You're not going on a fashion parade" was used as liberally as any catchphrase, and if I wanted to spend time putting my hair into plaits or putting on lipgloss I was told it was pointless and that I was wasting time.

It's easy to see then, the origins of the conflict in my head. On top of being an overthinker anyway... Well it all makes shopping a very stressful experience. I used to know what I liked and ignore it due to lack of funds, but I managed to switch off that desire for things so effectively that I don't even know what I like any more. Yet I still chose a fashion course because I knew that I was interested and it was something that I wanted, I just wasn't quite there yet.

So this is why I want to get back into blogging again. I need to open up the creative side of my life again, through art, fashion, illustration, colour; I need to experiment. At the end of the day, if I wear a train wreck it really doesn't matter, but if I spend another day wearing the same clothes that I have for the last 2 years I might just go mad.

I'd like to formally invite you on my journey. My goal is to do or document something creative each day, reawaken the right side of my brain. Hopefully by the time I start the second year of uni in October it will all be habit, and I can look back at the days of jeans-and-a-shirt and give a wistful sigh, thankful that I've got my mojo back.